Our dear friend, Christina McKinney, is back with another amazing plushie tutorial! If you were a fan of her adorable Pond Fishie Plushie, then you are going to love these adorable Marine Whales! This PDF pattern, comes in two sizes, so you can create an entire family of marine whales for your little tot at home! Now I’ll hand the wheel over to Christina… Enjoy!
Howdy y’all! Sharing another fun
tutorial with you today, inspired by the adorable Marine Too Collection by Dan
Stiles. I actually grew up wanting to be a marine biologist, so ocean creatures
have a special place in my heart. These sweet plushies come in two sizes and
sew up really fast. They’d be a great nursery decor item, or a snuggly gift for
a little one. You could even add a few ribbon loops around the edges and make
it a taggie friend! Whatever options you may choose, I hope you have fun with
it!
tutorial with you today, inspired by the adorable Marine Too Collection by Dan
Stiles. I actually grew up wanting to be a marine biologist, so ocean creatures
have a special place in my heart. These sweet plushies come in two sizes and
sew up really fast. They’d be a great nursery decor item, or a snuggly gift for
a little one. You could even add a few ribbon loops around the edges and make
it a taggie friend! Whatever options you may choose, I hope you have fun with
it!
Tips: Use a 1/4in seam allowance throughout, unless otherwise
stated. Read your pattern pieces carefully and assemble them along the
indicated edges. (Refer to the piecing guide) Pinning will really help keep
seams matched up, but I DO NOT recommend sewing over pins! Press all your
pieces well before and during sewing.
stated. Read your pattern pieces carefully and assemble them along the
indicated edges. (Refer to the piecing guide) Pinning will really help keep
seams matched up, but I DO NOT recommend sewing over pins! Press all your
pieces well before and during sewing.
Supplies needed:
1 fat quarter in main fabric print
1 fat quarter in contrast fabric
(for bottom section)
(for bottom section)
1 fat quarter in second contrast
print (for fins)
print (for fins)
Polyfil stuffing
Printed pattern pieces – GET THE PATTERN HERE
Finished dimensions:
Large – 13 1/2in wide by 10in tall
Small – 9in wide by 7in tall
Now lets get started!
With right sides together, sew each
of your 2 sets of fins, leaving the top straight edges open.
of your 2 sets of fins, leaving the top straight edges open.
Making sure not to cut your
stitching, snip the curves to help the pieces lay flat when turned.
stitching, snip the curves to help the pieces lay flat when turned.
Using a chopstick or turning tool,
flip the fins right side out and press.
flip the fins right side out and press.
Stuff each fin with a small amount
of polyfil to desired firmness. Once stuffed, baste the straight edge shut.
of polyfil to desired firmness. Once stuffed, baste the straight edge shut.
Lay out your top and bottom pieces
to determine placement for your fin.
to determine placement for your fin.
With right sides together, match up
the long edges of your main body piece and bottom piece. Your fin should be
sandwiched in between the layers. Be sure to double check your fin placement so
that you don’t end up stitching it in place backwards. Pin in place.
the long edges of your main body piece and bottom piece. Your fin should be
sandwiched in between the layers. Be sure to double check your fin placement so
that you don’t end up stitching it in place backwards. Pin in place.
Repeat this process with the pieces
for the opposite side and stitch in place. (Make sure to place your fins in the
same place on both sides!)
for the opposite side and stitch in place. (Make sure to place your fins in the
same place on both sides!)
Press your seam up toward the body.
Stitch this seam in place by top stitching
about 1/8 from the edge of your seam. Use a contrasting thread for an extra
detail. I usually extend my stitch length slightly for topstitching. Repeat
this step for the opposite side as well.
about 1/8 from the edge of your seam. Use a contrasting thread for an extra
detail. I usually extend my stitch length slightly for topstitching. Repeat
this step for the opposite side as well.
If you plan to add the eye or any
additional embellishments, you’ll want to do that now,
additional embellishments, you’ll want to do that now,
Lay your assembled pieces with
right sides together. Be sure to flip the fins upward during this step to keep
them out of the way while you sew. Pin around the edges, leaving a start and
stop point along the bottom straight edge.
right sides together. Be sure to flip the fins upward during this step to keep
them out of the way while you sew. Pin around the edges, leaving a start and
stop point along the bottom straight edge.
Stitch the pieces together, making
sure to reinforce your start and stop points. Take your time sewing around the
various curves.
sure to reinforce your start and stop points. Take your time sewing around the
various curves.
It seems like a tedious step, but
make sure to snip your curves before turning the piece right side out. It’s a
little time consuming, but it makes all the difference in how it lays once it’s
right side out. (Just be sure to not clip through your stitch line!)
make sure to snip your curves before turning the piece right side out. It’s a
little time consuming, but it makes all the difference in how it lays once it’s
right side out. (Just be sure to not clip through your stitch line!)
Using a chopstick or turning tool,
flip the whale right side out. Press one last time to get rid of the creases
caused by turning. Stuff to desired firmness.
flip the whale right side out. Press one last time to get rid of the creases
caused by turning. Stuff to desired firmness.
Close your bottom opening with a
blind or ladder stitch.
blind or ladder stitch.
And you’re done!
Ready to snuggle….or chew
Thank you Christina for this amazing free pattern! Be sure to share these cuties with a friend, heck we’re thinking about having a girls sew night to sew a few up for ourselves!
