Backpack Supplies:
A few notes/tips before you get started: Prewash/press all fabric. Always be mindful of fabric direction if
that is a factor with the fabric you choose. All seams are 1/2 inch unless
otherwise stated. Starting with a new needle on your machine will be extremely
helpful for this project since it involves sewing over some bulk in a few
places. Please DO NOT run over pins as you sew for any reason. This can really
damage your machine!
that is a factor with the fabric you choose. All seams are 1/2 inch unless
otherwise stated. Starting with a new needle on your machine will be extremely
helpful for this project since it involves sewing over some bulk in a few
places. Please DO NOT run over pins as you sew for any reason. This can really
damage your machine!
Fabric
●
1 yard main fabric
1 yard main fabric
●
3/4 yard lining fabric
3/4 yard lining fabric
●
1/2 yard flap/pocket fabric
1/2 yard flap/pocket fabric
Notions
●
1 package piping in coordinating color (2 1/2 yards)
1 package piping in coordinating color (2 1/2 yards)
●
1 pair of 2 inch D rings
1 pair of 2 inch D rings
●
3 inch strip of velcro
3 inch strip of velcro
●
31 inches of 1/2 inch elastic (Cut in 3 pieces: 2 – 5in
pieces & 1 – 21in piece)
31 inches of 1/2 inch elastic (Cut in 3 pieces: 2 – 5in
pieces & 1 – 21in piece)
●
1 1/2 yards medium weight iron-in interfacing
1 1/2 yards medium weight iron-in interfacing
Fabric Cut List
From the main fabric
cut:
cut:
●
2 – 10in x 13in rectangles (front and back panels)
2 – 10in x 13in rectangles (front and back panels)
●
2 – 5in x 13in rectangles (side panels)
2 – 5in x 13in rectangles (side panels)
●
1 – 5in x 10in rectangle (base)
1 – 5in x 10in rectangle (base)
●
1 – 4in x 7in strip (hanging strap)
1 – 4in x 7in strip (hanging strap)
●
2 – 4 1/2in x 20in strips (back straps)
2 – 4 1/2in x 20in strips (back straps)
From the lining fabric
cut:
cut:
●
2 – 10in x 13in rectangles (inner front & back
panels)
2 – 10in x 13in rectangles (inner front & back
panels)
●
2 – 5in x 13in rectangles (inner side panels)
2 – 5in x 13in rectangles (inner side panels)
●
1 – 5in x 10in rectangles (inner base)
1 – 5in x 10in rectangles (inner base)
From the accent fabric
cut:
cut:
●
4 – 6in x 7in rectangles (pockets)
4 – 6in x 7in rectangles (pockets)
●
2 – 8.5in x 10in rectangles (flap)
2 – 8.5in x 10in rectangles (flap)
●
1 – 4 1/2in x 28in strip (elastic casing) This can also be cut as 2 – 4 1/2×14
1/2 strips & sewn into a 28in
strip with a 1/2 inch seam.
1 – 4 1/2in x 28in strip (elastic casing) This can also be cut as 2 – 4 1/2×14
1/2 strips & sewn into a 28in
strip with a 1/2 inch seam.
From the interfacing
cut:
cut:
●
2 – 10in x 13in (front & back panels)
2 – 10in x 13in (front & back panels)
●
2 – 5in x 13in (side panels)
2 – 5in x 13in (side panels)
●
1 – 5in x 10in (base)
1 – 5in x 10in (base)
●
2 – 1in x 7in (hanging strap)
2 – 1in x 7in (hanging strap)
●
2 – 6in x 7in (pockets)
2 – 6in x 7in (pockets)
●
1 – 8.5in x 10in (flap)
1 – 8.5in x 10in (flap)
●
4 – 1 1/2in x 20in (back straps)
4 – 1 1/2in x 20in (back straps)
Directions:
EXCLUDING the strap pieces (back straps & hanging strap),
iron interfacing to all MAIN BODY
pieces. They should be –
iron interfacing to all MAIN BODY
pieces. They should be –
●
1 of the 2 flap piece
1 of the 2 flap piece
●
2 side pieces
2 side pieces
●
2 main body pieces
2 main body pieces
●
1 base piece
1 base piece
●
2 of the 4 pocket pieces
2 of the 4 pocket pieces
You could also do this as you go along, but I find it easier to
just knock out all at once.
just knock out all at once.
First, we’ll construct the flap. Using the rounded edge of a cup
or bowl, trace a rounded corner on the bottom two corners of your flap. If your
fabric has a directional print, make sure you have your flap facing the correct
way so it doesn’t end up upside down.
or bowl, trace a rounded corner on the bottom two corners of your flap. If your
fabric has a directional print, make sure you have your flap facing the correct
way so it doesn’t end up upside down.
Once you’ve traced the edges, cut both pieces to match.
(cutting through the interfacing as well)
(cutting through the interfacing as well)
The piece with the interfacing will be your liner (inside
piece). This is the side you will attach one piece of your velcro to. Center
the piece of velcro about 2 inches from the bottom, pin and sew in place.
piece). This is the side you will attach one piece of your velcro to. Center
the piece of velcro about 2 inches from the bottom, pin and sew in place.
On your interfaced piece of flap, pin your piping with raw
edges out then baste stitch in place. (You will need to pin the piping then cut
the correct length because the size of your curve will determine the exact
length you need.)
edges out then baste stitch in place. (You will need to pin the piping then cut
the correct length because the size of your curve will determine the exact
length you need.)
Once piping is basted in place, align flap with right sides
together and stitch around 3 sides. You will leave the top straight edge open
for turning. Be sure to stitch on the side where your piping baste stitch
visible. You want to stick as close to this as you can to ensure your piping
stays nice and snug.
together and stitch around 3 sides. You will leave the top straight edge open
for turning. Be sure to stitch on the side where your piping baste stitch
visible. You want to stick as close to this as you can to ensure your piping
stays nice and snug.
Snip the rounded edge for easier turning, just be sure not to
cut through your stitch line.
cut through your stitch line.
Turn right side out and press.
Now, take your 4 pocket pieces, 2 of which should have
interfacing on the back, and pair up an interfaced piece with a non interfaced
piece. With right sides together, sew down the long side (7in) using a 1/2in
seam.
interfacing on the back, and pair up an interfaced piece with a non interfaced
piece. With right sides together, sew down the long side (7in) using a 1/2in
seam.
Open and press seam to one side.
Fold over wrong sides together and press top seam.
Repeat with second pocket.
In coordinating thread, sew a stitch line 3/4in from the top to
create a casing for your 1/2in elastic.
create a casing for your 1/2in elastic.
Cut a 5in piece of elastic and using a safety pin, feed into
one open end of your pocket casing. (Be sure not to lose the other end inside
or you’ll have to pull it out and do it again)
one open end of your pocket casing. (Be sure not to lose the other end inside
or you’ll have to pull it out and do it again)
Pull slowly until the end of the elastic barely shows at the
end of the casing and then sew in place using a 1/4in seam.
end of the casing and then sew in place using a 1/4in seam.
Once the first seam is attached, continue pulling the elastic
through with the safety pin until it comes out the opposite side. Leaving a
little poking out, stitch in place using a 1/4in seam. This should create a
slightly gathered elastic pocket across the top.
through with the safety pin until it comes out the opposite side. Leaving a
little poking out, stitch in place using a 1/4in seam. This should create a
slightly gathered elastic pocket across the top.
You will now need to baste these to your OUTER side panel
pieces. The pockets are going to require small tucks to lay properly across the
bottom of the side panel. To do this, first match one of the lower corners on
the panel to the lower corner of the constructed pocket piece and pin in place.
(You may find it easier to run a basting stitch along the bottom of your pocket
piece so that the two layers stay together.)
pieces. The pockets are going to require small tucks to lay properly across the
bottom of the side panel. To do this, first match one of the lower corners on
the panel to the lower corner of the constructed pocket piece and pin in place.
(You may find it easier to run a basting stitch along the bottom of your pocket
piece so that the two layers stay together.)
Match and pin the opposite lower corner, then pin up each side.
The pocket is going to flex & pop outward once both sides are pinned
properly.
The pocket is going to flex & pop outward once both sides are pinned
properly.
You will then create tucks by pressing down on the bottom and
creasing two spots about an inch from each corner.
creasing two spots about an inch from each corner.
Pin those two tucks in place. (Do not stress about exactness
here. Simply eyeball 2 tucks in place. You just need the bottom of the pocket
to be flush with the bottom of the flap.)
here. Simply eyeball 2 tucks in place. You just need the bottom of the pocket
to be flush with the bottom of the flap.)
Repeat the process of pinning/tucking with the second pocket
and then run a basting stitch 1/4 from the edge around the sides and bottom of
each pocket piece. (Leaving the top open.)
and then run a basting stitch 1/4 from the edge around the sides and bottom of
each pocket piece. (Leaving the top open.)
Next we’re going to assemble the straps and hanging strap
pieces…we’re going to need them soon!
pieces…we’re going to need them soon!
Fold each long side of the 20in strap pieces under 1/4in and
press.
press.
Fold in half lengthwise and press.
Insert one strip of 20in interfacing up under one folded over
side & iron in place. (Ensure your interfacing sits right against the 1/4in
fold.)
side & iron in place. (Ensure your interfacing sits right against the 1/4in
fold.)
Repeat on opposite side. The fold should still be visible down
the center.
the center.
Once both interfacing pieces are secured, refold the strip down
the center and press. In coordinating thread, topstitch 1/4 from the open edge
to secure it. Repeat on the opposite side for decoration.
the center and press. In coordinating thread, topstitch 1/4 from the open edge
to secure it. Repeat on the opposite side for decoration.
The process for making the hang strap is quite similar. Fold
each long side under 1/2in and
press.
each long side under 1/2in and
press.
Fold in half lengthwise and press.
Insert interfacing strip on one side, butting against the fold,
and press into place.
and press into place.
Repeat with other half. (Again, fold line down the center
should still be visible once interfacing is in place)
should still be visible once interfacing is in place)
In coordinating thread, topstitch along each long side, 1/4
from the edge.
from the edge.
***You can go on and cut each strip into pieces at this point.
Each 20in strip should be cut into 2 pieces – one 14in strip and one 6in strip.
The short (6in) will be the top strap and the long (14in) will be the bottom
strap. The hang strap does NOT get cut.***
Each 20in strip should be cut into 2 pieces – one 14in strip and one 6in strip.
The short (6in) will be the top strap and the long (14in) will be the bottom
strap. The hang strap does NOT get cut.***
Now, to assemble the outer body. Take your two OUTER fabric
pieces (that should have interfacing on them already) and pin a length of
piping to each long side on the right side, lining up the raw edges.
pieces (that should have interfacing on them already) and pin a length of
piping to each long side on the right side, lining up the raw edges.
Baste in place and repeat with second piece. Each long side on
both pieces will have piping.
both pieces will have piping.
To construct the form of the outer body, all pieces are going
be sewn to the base on one side, then the side seams will be sewn. Basically in
a plus (+) sign. (Don’t worry…you get more details and photos on that
process!)
be sewn to the base on one side, then the side seams will be sewn. Basically in
a plus (+) sign. (Don’t worry…you get more details and photos on that
process!)
So, take one main body piece (with piping basted to it and
interfacing attached) and pin the short side of it to the long side of the base
piece. (Base piece should also already have interfacing attached as well)
Stitch in place with a 1/2in seam. Fabric direction is important here, this is
the OUTSIDE of your bag, so ensure you have placed it properly to be faced the
right direction.
interfacing attached) and pin the short side of it to the long side of the base
piece. (Base piece should also already have interfacing attached as well)
Stitch in place with a 1/2in seam. Fabric direction is important here, this is
the OUTSIDE of your bag, so ensure you have placed it properly to be faced the
right direction.
You will be running over 2 pieces of piping in this step, just
ease your machine over them carefully.
ease your machine over them carefully.
You will repeat this with the second main panel as well, with
one change – inserting the bottom straps. BEFORE you stitch, place your bottom
straps (the long 14in pieces) 1 1/2 from the sides and pin/baste in place.
one change – inserting the bottom straps. BEFORE you stitch, place your bottom
straps (the long 14in pieces) 1 1/2 from the sides and pin/baste in place.
Once basted in place, sew a 1/2in seam across the whole side
and secure straps in the seam.
and secure straps in the seam.
To attach your first side panel, line up the bottom pocket edge
with the short side of your base.
with the short side of your base.
There is a previous stitch line from the 2 sides already
attached, you will ONLY sew between those lines.
attached, you will ONLY sew between those lines.
To check if your side piece and base are lined up properly,
press the seams flat to make sure everything matches before stitching it into
place.
press the seams flat to make sure everything matches before stitching it into
place.
Repeat with the second side panel and base.
Once all 4 pieces are attached, you should have the
aforementioned “+” sign.
aforementioned “+” sign.
You should be able to pivot one side piece and one body piece
until they lay with raw seams flush. You will lay them right sides together and
then stitch along the basting stitch line from the piping. (There will be a
slightly not lined up place at the very base, but do not worry, everything will
still match up!) This is a photo of that not quite perfectly lined up spot on
the lining because it’s easier to see:
until they lay with raw seams flush. You will lay them right sides together and
then stitch along the basting stitch line from the piping. (There will be a
slightly not lined up place at the very base, but do not worry, everything will
still match up!) This is a photo of that not quite perfectly lined up spot on
the lining because it’s easier to see:
Now, you will continue by pulling the sides together one at a
time and stitch in place along the long sides.
time and stitch in place along the long sides.
To stitch these in place securely, follow along the stitch line
made when you basted the piping on. You will stick as close to that line as
possible in order to keep your piping super snug. I tend to even go over a
little to pinch it that much tighter. Don’t be in a rush, this part will take a
little time.
made when you basted the piping on. You will stick as close to that line as
possible in order to keep your piping super snug. I tend to even go over a
little to pinch it that much tighter. Don’t be in a rush, this part will take a
little time.
You will repeat that step with the remaining 3 sides. Make sure
you’re always aware of where your straps are so that they don’t accidentally
end up in the way.
you’re always aware of where your straps are so that they don’t accidentally
end up in the way.
Before turning it out, you can clip down some of the corner
seam bulk to make it lay better. DO NOT clip through any of your stitching!
seam bulk to make it lay better. DO NOT clip through any of your stitching!
Press these seams slightly to make the bag lay better over all.
For the inner LINER pieces, repeat these steps EXACTLY using a
1/2in seam.
1/2in seam.
You should end up with very nicely finished corners on your
liner.
liner.
Once your lining is finished, leave it right side facing in and
slip it down into your completed body piece. Pin in place around the top.
slip it down into your completed body piece. Pin in place around the top.
Now you will need to pin your remaining short straps (6in
pieces) and hanging strap to the top, center back of the body. Fold your BACK
panel piece in half to find the center and pin the hang strap in place. Leaving
just about a 1/2in on each side, pin your top straps in place on either side of
the hang strap. (NOTE: This is all
being pinned/sewn to the side that has the lower straps already in place at the
bottom.) Run a basting stitch 1/4in from the edge across the top back to hold
the straps in place.
pieces) and hanging strap to the top, center back of the body. Fold your BACK
panel piece in half to find the center and pin the hang strap in place. Leaving
just about a 1/2in on each side, pin your top straps in place on either side of
the hang strap. (NOTE: This is all
being pinned/sewn to the side that has the lower straps already in place at the
bottom.) Run a basting stitch 1/4in from the edge across the top back to hold
the straps in place.
You will then center, pin, and baste the flap in place right on
top of where you just secured the straps. Use a 1/4in basting stitch for this
as well. (NOTE: Make sure you position the flap correctly – the velcro side
should be facing UP.)
top of where you just secured the straps. Use a 1/4in basting stitch for this
as well. (NOTE: Make sure you position the flap correctly – the velcro side
should be facing UP.)
Continue basting all the way around the top of the bag to hold
the lining and outer in place together. This will make installing the casing
MUCH easier.
the lining and outer in place together. This will make installing the casing
MUCH easier.
To assemble the casing, you will either need one continuous
piece measuring 4 1/2 x 28, or you will need to stitch together your 2 – 4
1/2×14 1/2 pieces (with a 1/2in seam) to create a 28in piece. If you stitch 2
pieces, you will then press the seam open. (I did the 2 piece casing)
piece measuring 4 1/2 x 28, or you will need to stitch together your 2 – 4
1/2×14 1/2 pieces (with a 1/2in seam) to create a 28in piece. If you stitch 2
pieces, you will then press the seam open. (I did the 2 piece casing)
Whichever method you choose, continue by pressing under a 1/4in
seam on both long sides of your strip.
seam on both long sides of your strip.
Fold down the center lengthwise and press.
Now, you’re going to open the ends back up, pin them, and
stitch together using a 1/2in seam.
stitch together using a 1/2in seam.
Once your seam is stitched, press the seam open and repress the
edges under.
edges under.
This will create a continuous casing to enclose your edges at
the top of the bag. (NOTE: Due to
minor inconsistencies when it comes to sewing, you might need your casing
slightly smaller or larger than this. This last seam is where you will make any
needed adjustments. To determine if your casing is the right size, slip it over
your raw edges and pin in place about 1/2in from the top of the bag. It should
sit nicely without puckers or excess fabric. If it is too snug, pull out the
previous seam and sew it smaller. Too loose, deepen the seam until it fits
snug.)
the top of the bag. (NOTE: Due to
minor inconsistencies when it comes to sewing, you might need your casing
slightly smaller or larger than this. This last seam is where you will make any
needed adjustments. To determine if your casing is the right size, slip it over
your raw edges and pin in place about 1/2in from the top of the bag. It should
sit nicely without puckers or excess fabric. If it is too snug, pull out the
previous seam and sew it smaller. Too loose, deepen the seam until it fits
snug.)
WE’RE IN THE HOME STRETCH, PROMISE!!!
Once your casing is sized correctly and pinned in place, mark
off a start/stop point on the back of your bag. This will be where you insert
your elastic one you create the casing.
off a start/stop point on the back of your bag. This will be where you insert
your elastic one you create the casing.
Using a coordinating colored thread and sewing 1/4 from the
edge, sew your casing in place along the bottom. (Make sure to pay attention to
your start and stop points.) Take your time making sure your stitching through
both layers of your casing evenly and ease over the spots with bulk. Also,
DON’T stress if you get a pucker or two. You’re going to be inserting the
elastic which will hide any little flaws that may be in the casing. However, if
you find you didn’t catch the underside seam, you will need to pull out and
restitch that in place. Again, GO SLOW!
edge, sew your casing in place along the bottom. (Make sure to pay attention to
your start and stop points.) Take your time making sure your stitching through
both layers of your casing evenly and ease over the spots with bulk. Also,
DON’T stress if you get a pucker or two. You’re going to be inserting the
elastic which will hide any little flaws that may be in the casing. However, if
you find you didn’t catch the underside seam, you will need to pull out and
restitch that in place. Again, GO SLOW!
Once you’ve stitched the first line in place, you’re going to
run a second stitch line 3/4in from the top. This will be the casing for your
1/2in elastic.
run a second stitch line 3/4in from the top. This will be the casing for your
1/2in elastic.
Using a safety pin, take your 21in piece of 1/2in elastic and
thread it through the TOP of the casing you just created. (NOTE: I stick my safety pin through the elastic twice. Nothing is
worse than losing a piece on elastic in your casing because the safety pin rips
through the elastic! Also, try not to twist your elastic as you go.)
thread it through the TOP of the casing you just created. (NOTE: I stick my safety pin through the elastic twice. Nothing is
worse than losing a piece on elastic in your casing because the safety pin rips
through the elastic! Also, try not to twist your elastic as you go.)
Once you’ve pulled the elastic in a bit, secure the other end
with a safety pin so it doesn’t slip into the casing making you have to start
all over.
with a safety pin so it doesn’t slip into the casing making you have to start
all over.
Once your elastic is in place, overlap it by about 1 1/2in and
pin in place.
pin in place.
With the elastic PINNED, test out the stretch to see if it is
too much/to little and adjust your elastic accordingly. (NOTE: I chose 21in because with the overlap, I like the
size/stretch of the opening. This {for me} works better than a drawstring for
little hands. You need something to keep things from falling out, but that
won’t be too fiddly for say a 2 year old. Feel free to adjust to suite your own
needs. I do NOT recommend using anything larger than 1/2in though. The elastic
in larger sizes becomes pretty tight and would be too tough for a young kid to
maneuver.)
too much/to little and adjust your elastic accordingly. (NOTE: I chose 21in because with the overlap, I like the
size/stretch of the opening. This {for me} works better than a drawstring for
little hands. You need something to keep things from falling out, but that
won’t be too fiddly for say a 2 year old. Feel free to adjust to suite your own
needs. I do NOT recommend using anything larger than 1/2in though. The elastic
in larger sizes becomes pretty tight and would be too tough for a young kid to
maneuver.)
Once you’ve settled on a good length and made sure you have no
twists in your elastic, secure the elastic in place with a series of zigzag
stitches in 2 places. (Both ends of the overlap)
twists in your elastic, secure the elastic in place with a series of zigzag
stitches in 2 places. (Both ends of the overlap)
Pull/stretch your casing until the elastic settles up inside.
Pin and finish both of your partial stitch lines to close up your casing.
Pin and finish both of your partial stitch lines to close up your casing.
Now you’re going to need to sew the other half of your velcro
to the front of your bag. I picked a spot a little ways down, about 3 1/2in
from the top of the casing, and centered it up.
to the front of your bag. I picked a spot a little ways down, about 3 1/2in
from the top of the casing, and centered it up.
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Pin in place, making sure your inner liner isn’t puckered and
stitch your velcro in place.
stitch your velcro in place.
LAST PART!!
To finish off your top straps, you’re going to fold them under
about 1/4in.
about 1/4in.
Lay your D ring on top.
Then fold over another 1/2in and pin with your D ring in place.
This is another step that isn’t precise. Just get as close to your D ring as
you can and still be able to stitch it in place.
This is another step that isn’t precise. Just get as close to your D ring as
you can and still be able to stitch it in place.
From the side you can see your raw edges are now folded under.
This might seem a little scary, but now you’re going to sew
right up next to your D ring. (Don’t worry, you can do it!) Just go slow and
make sure you don’t somehow put the ring UNDER your presser foot. (Because that
would be bad) For this step I back up a few stitches at the beginning and end
to secure the stitches in place. I recommend this since it’s such a short
piece.
right up next to your D ring. (Don’t worry, you can do it!) Just go slow and
make sure you don’t somehow put the ring UNDER your presser foot. (Because that
would be bad) For this step I back up a few stitches at the beginning and end
to secure the stitches in place. I recommend this since it’s such a short
piece.
Repeat with the other strap.
With your (long) bottom straps, you’re going to do a similar
step. Fold under 1/4in then fold under again and pin in place. (Same as above
just no D ring)
step. Fold under 1/4in then fold under again and pin in place. (Same as above
just no D ring)
Sew this end shut with a narrow edge.
You will need to select 2 buttons for the straps (or 4 if you
would like it to be even more adjustable) and sew a buttonhole onto the bottom
of the long straps.
would like it to be even more adjustable) and sew a buttonhole onto the bottom
of the long straps.
Once the buttonhole is sewn, cut open with a seam ripper rather
than scissors. (Less chance of snipping important threads)
than scissors. (Less chance of snipping important threads)
Fold the piece over the D ring and decide where you want to
place your first button. Stick a pin in the center to mark the spot to sew your
buttons on.
place your first button. Stick a pin in the center to mark the spot to sew your
buttons on.
Sew buttons in place.
I sewed my buttons on the inside of the strap so they don’t
show, but you can sew them on the other side and they will work just the same.
(You would install a second set of buttons lower than that if you want to be
able to make it tighter.)
show, but you can sew them on the other side and they will work just the same.
(You would install a second set of buttons lower than that if you want to be
able to make it tighter.)
And now, YOU’RE DONE!!
Enjoy!
Thank you so much Christina for your in depth directions! This toddler backpack is the perfect size for preschoolers and kindergarden goers! Give this project a try and let us know how it went!
Featured Fabric: Robotic by Rebekah Ginda for Birch Fabrics.
Shops carrying Robotic can feel free to share this tutorial with your customers! Just email us at [email protected]
